Highly concentrated, free-flowing pearly lustre concentrates

ABSTRACT

A pearlizing composition containing: (a) from about 20 to 45% by weight of a pearlizing wax; (b) from about 0.1 to 6% by weight of an anionic surfactant; (c) from about 0.1 to 8% by weight of a polyol ester; (d) optionally, a surfactant selected from the group consisting of a zwitterionic surfactant, an amphoteric surfactant, and mixtures thereof; and (e) water, all weights being based on the weight of the composition, and wherein (a) and (c) are present in the composition in a ratio by weight of from about 12:1 to 7:1, and wherein (c) and (b) are present in the composition in a ratio by weight of from about 2:1 to 0.8:1.

FIELD OF THE INVENTION

This invention relates to highly concentrated pearlizing concentrateswith a high content of pearlizing waxes and contents of anionicsurfactants and special emulsifier/polyol ester mixtures and to aprocess for their production.

PRIOR ART

Pearlizers are a long-established and proven medium for providingcosmetic products with an attractive, rich and interesting appearance.An overview of modern pearlizing formulations was published by A.Ansmann and R. Kawa in Parf. Kosm. 75, 578 (1994). Besides having topossess the required properties, such as high brilliance, good particlefineness and high compatibility with other auxiliaries, particularlyhighly concentrated formulations intended for subsequent processing areexpected to combine uniform, good physicochemical stability with lowviscosity and flowability. Polyol fatty acid esters are often used asviscosity adjusters in the production of pearlizing concentrates. Theyare used in combination with anionic, zwitterionic and nonionicsurfactant mixtures, not only the dermatological and mucous membranecompatibility of these mixtures, but also ecotoxicological aspectshaving been taken into consideration for some time now.

European Patents EP 0581193 B1 and EP 0568848 B1 disclose flowableconcentrated pearlizing formulations containing large quantities offatty acid glycol esters and betaines as zwitterionic surfactants. Fattyalcohol alkoxylates are used as nonionic surfactants.

International patent application WO 96/21711 also describes pearlizingconcentrates containing nonionic, anionic and zwitterionic surfactants.The nonionic surfactants are necessarily fatty alcohol ethoxylates.However, fatty alcohol ethoxylates are ecotoxicolocially problematic onaccount of their toxicity to fish and aquatic organisms.

Accordingly, the problem addressed by the present invention was toprovide new pearlizing concentrates with a very content of activesubstances which would be distinguished by good environmentalcompatibility, high dermatological compatibility, a low content ofemulsifiers and improved processability coupled with high stability andcomparable performance in regard to the brilliance of the pearlescence.

DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

The present invention relates to highly concentrated, flowablepearlizing concentrates containing

-   -   (a) 20 to 45% by weight pearlizing waxes,    -   (b) 0.1 to 6% by weight anionic surfactants,    -   (c) 0.1 to 8% by weight nonionic emulsifiers from the group of        polyol esters,        with the provisos that the quantities shown add up to 100% by        weight with water and optionally other auxiliaries and        additives, the quantity ratio of pearlizing waxes (a) to        nonionic emulsifiers from the group of polyol esters (c) is in        the range from 12:1 to 7:1 and the quantity ratio of polyol        esters to anionic surfactants is in the range from 2:1 to 0.8:1.

It has surprisingly been found that, using anionic surfactants andpolyol esters in a specially defined quantity ratio, pearlizingconcentrates with a high percentage content of pearlizing waxes and alow percentage content of emulsifiers can be formulated tophysicochemically very stable and yet flowable and readily processablecompositions without the environmentally toxic fatty alcohol ethoxylateshaving to be present. The formulations are distinguished by highdermatological compatibility and contribute towards lower aquaticpollution than conventional pearlizers.

Pearlizing Waxes

Suitable pearlizing waxes are, for example, alkylene glycol esters,fatty acid alkanolamides, partial glycerides, esters of polybasic,optionally hydroxysubstituted carboxylic acids, fatty alcohols, fattyacids, fatty ketones, fatty aldehydes, fatty ethers, fatty carbonates,ring opening products of olefin epoxides and mixtures thereof.

The alkylene glycol esters which form component (a1) are normallymonoesters and/or diesters of alkylene glycols corresponding to formula(I):R¹CO(OA)_(n)OR²   (I)in which R¹CO is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated acylgroup containing 6 to 22 carbon atoms, R² is hydrogen or has the samemeaning as R¹CO and A is a linear or branched alkylene group containing2 to 4 carbon atoms and n is a number of 1 to 5. Typical examples aremonoesters and/or diesters of ethylene glycol, propylene glycol,diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, triethylene glycol ortetraethylene glycol with fatty acids containing 6 to 22 and preferably12 to 18 carbon atoms, such as caproic acid, caprylic acid,2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid,myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearicacid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselic acid, linoleic acid,linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachic acid, gadoleic acid, behenicacid and erucic acid and technical mixtures thereof.

Other pearlizing waxes, such as fatty acid alkanolamides, correspond toformula (II):R³CO—NR⁴—B—OH   (II)in which R³CO is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated acylgroup containing 6 to 22 carbon atoms, R⁴ is hydrogen or an optionallyhydroxy-substituted alkyl group containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms and B isa linear or branched alkylene group containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms.Typical examples are condensation products of ethanolamine, methylethanolamine, diethanolamine, propanolamine, methyl propanolamine anddipropanolamine and mixtures thereof with caproic acid, caprylic acid,2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid,myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearicacid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselic acid, linoleic acid,linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachic acid, gadoleic acid, behenicacid and erucic acid and technical mixtures thereof. Stearic acidethanolamide is particularly preferred.

Partial glycerides are monoesters and/or diesters of glycerol withlinear, saturated fatty acids, i.e. for example caproic acid, caprylicacid, capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid,palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid and technical mixturesthereof. They correspond to formula (III):

in which R⁵CO is a linear, saturated acyl group containing 6 to 22carbon atoms, R⁶ and R⁷ independently of one another represent hydrogenor have the same meaning as R⁵CO, x, y and z together stand for 0 or fora number of 1 to 30 and X is an alkali or alkaline earth metal, with theproviso that at least one of the two substituents R⁶ and R⁷ is hydrogen.Typical examples are lauric acid monoglyceride, lauric acid diglyceride,coconut fatty acid monoglyceride, coconut fatty acid triglyceride,palmitic acid monoglyceride, palmitic acid triglyceride, stearic acidmonoglyceride, stearic acid diglyceride, tallow fatty acidmonoglyceride, tallow fatty acid diglyceride, behenic acidmonoglyceride, behenic acid diglyceride and technical mixtures thereofwhich may still contain small quantities of triglyceride from theproduction process.

Another preferred group of pearlizing waxes are esters of polybasic,optionally hydroxysubstituted carboxylic acids with fatty alcoholscontaining 6 to 22 carbon atoms. The acid component of these esters maybe selected, for example, from malonic acid, maleic acid, fumaric acid,adipic acid, sebacic acid, azelaic acid, dodecanedioic acid, phthalicacid, isophthalic acid and, more particularly, succinic acid and alsomalic acid, citric acid and, more particularly, tartaric acid andmixtures thereof. The fatty alcohols contain 6 to 22, preferably 12 to18 and more preferably 16 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl chain. Typicalexamples are caproic alcohol, caprylic alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol,capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol,cetyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol,oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol,linolenyl alcohol, elaeostearyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleylalcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol andtechnical mixtures thereof. The esters may be present as full or partialesters; monoesters and, above all, diesters of carboxylic orhydroxycarboxylic acids preferably being used. Typical examples aresuccinic acid mono- and dilauryl ester, succinic acid mono- anddicetearyl ester, succinic acid mono- and distearyl ester, tartaric acidmono- and dilauryl ester, tartaric acid mono- and dicocoalkyl ester,tartaric acid mono- and dicetearyl ester, citric acid mono-, di- andtrilauryl ester, citric acid mono-, di- and tricocoalkyl ester andcitric acid mono-, di- and tricetearyl ester.

A third group of pearlizing waxes are fatty alcohols and fatty acidscorresponding to formulae (IVa and b):R⁸OH   (IVa)R⁸COOH   (IVb)in which R⁸ is a linear, optionally hydroxy-substituted alkyl groupand/or acyl group containing 16 to 48 and preferably 18 to 36 carbonatoms. Typical examples of suitable alcohols are cetearyl alcohol,hydroxystearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and oxidation products oflong-chain paraffins.

Fatty ketones preferably correspond to formula (V):R⁹—CO—R¹⁰   (V)in which R⁹ and R¹⁰ independently of one another represent alkyl and/oralkenyl groups containing 1 to 22 carbon atoms, with the proviso thatthey contain a total of at least 24 and preferably 32 to 48 carbonatoms. The ketones may be prepared by known methods, for example bypyrolysis of the corresponding fatty acid magnesium salts. The ketonesmay be symmetrical or non-symmetrical, although the two substituents R⁹and R¹⁰ preferably differ from one another by only one carbon atom andare derived from fatty acids containing 16 to 22 carbon atoms.

Fatty aldehydes suitable as pearlizing waxes preferably correspond toformula (VI):R¹¹COH   (VI)in which R¹¹CO is a linear or branched acyl group containing 24 to 48and preferably 28 to 32 carbon atoms.

Other suitable pearlizing waxes are fatty ethers corresponding toformula (VII):R¹²—O—R¹³   (VII)in which R¹² and R¹³ independently of one another represent alkyl and/oralkenyl groups containing 1 to 22 carbon atoms, with the proviso thatthey contain a total of at least 24 and preferably 32 to 48 carbonatoms. Fatty ethers of the type mentioned are normally prepared byacidic condensation of the corresponding fatty alcohols. Fatty etherswith particularly advantageous pearlizing properties are obtained bycondensation of fatty alcohols containing 16 to 22 carbon atoms such as,for example, cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol,isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and/or erucylalcohol.

Other suitable pearlizing waxes are fatty carbonates corresponding toformula (VIII):R¹⁴O—CO—OR¹⁵   (VII)in which R¹⁴ and R¹⁵ independently of one another are alkyl and/oralkenyl groups containing 1 to 22 carbon atoms, with the proviso thatthey contain a total of at least 24 and preferably 32 to 48 carbonatoms. The substances are obtained by transesterifying dimethyl ordiethyl carbonate, for example, with the corresponding fatty alcohols bymethods known per se. Accordingly, the fatty carbonates may besymmetrical or non-symmetrical. However, carbonates in which R¹⁴ and R¹⁵are the same and represent alkyl groups containing 16 to 22 carbon atomsare preferably used. Transesterification products of dimethyl or diethylcarbonate with cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol,isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and/or erucyl alcoholin the form of their monoesters and diesters and technical mixturesthereof are particularly preferred.

The ring-opening products are known substances which are normallyobtained by acid-catalyzed reaction of terminal or internal olefinepoxides with aliphatic alcohols. The reaction products preferablycorrespond to formula (IX):

in which R¹⁶ and R¹⁷ represent hydrogen or an alkyl group containing 10to 20 carbon atoms, with the proviso that the sum total of carbon atomsof R¹⁶ and R¹⁷ is between 10 and 20 and R¹⁸ is an alkyl and/or alkenylgroup containing 12 to 22 and/or the residue of a polyol containing 2 to15 carbon atoms and 2 to 10 hydroxyl groups. Typical examples arering-opening products of α-dodecene epoxide, α-hexadecene epoxide,α-octadecene epoxide, α-eicosene epoxide, α-docosene epoxide, i-dodeceneepoxide, i-hexadecene epoxide, i-octadecene epoxide, i-eicosene epoxideand/or i-docosene epoxide with lauryl alcohol, cocofatty alcohol,myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol,isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinylalcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and/orerucyl alcohol. Ring opening products of hexa- and/or octadeceneepoxides with fatty alcohols containing 16 to 18 carbon atoms arepreferably used. If polyols are used instead of the fatty alcohols forthe ring opening reaction, they are selected for example from thefollowing substances: glycerol; alkylene glycols such as, for example,ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol,hexylene glycol and polyethylene glycols with an average molecularweight of 100 to 1,000 dalton; technical oligoglycerol mixtures with adegree of self-condensation of 1.5 to 10 such as, for example, technicaldiglycerol mixtures with a diglycerol content of 40 to 50% by weight;methylol compounds such as, in particular, trimethylol ethane,trimethylol propane, trimethylol butane, pentaerythritol anddipentaerythritol; lower alkyl glucosides, more particularly thosecontaining 1 to 8 carbon atoms in the alkyl chain such as, for example,methyl and butyl glucoside; sugar alcohols containing 5 to 12 carbonatoms such as, for example, sorbitol or mannitol, sugars containing 5 to12 carbon atoms such as, for example, glucose or sucrose; amino sugarssuch as, for example, glucamine.

Preferred pearlizing waxes are alkylene glycol fatty acid esterscorresponding to formula (I) in quantities of 20 to 45% by weight,preferably in quantities of 25 to 40% by weight and more particularly inquantities of 27 to 39% by weight, based on the bearlizing concentrates.Among these pearlizing waxes, ethylene glycol mono- and/or distearateis/are particularly preferred for sparkling pearlescence. The bestresults are obtained with ethylene glycol distearate.

Anionic Surfactants

Examples of anionic surfactants are soaps, alkyl benzenesulfonates,alkane sulfonates, olefin sulfonates, alkyl ether sulfonates, glycerolether sulfonates, α-methyl ester sulfonates, sulfofatty acids, alkylsulfates, fatty alcohol ether sulfates, glycerol ether sulfates, fattyacid ether sulfates, hydroxy mixed ether sulfates, monoglyceride (ether)sulfates, fatty acid amide (ether) sulfates, mono- and dialkylsulfosuccinates, mono- and dialkyl sulfosuccinamates,sulfotriglycerides, amide soaps, ether carboxylic acids and saltsthereof, fatty acid isethionates, fatty acid sarcosinates, fatty acidtaurides, N-acylamino acids such as, for example, acyl lactylates, acyltartrates, acyl glutamates and acyl aspartates, alkyl oligoglucosidesulfates, protein fatty acid condensates (particularly wheat-basedvegetable products) and alkyl (ether) phosphates. If the anionicsurfactants contain polyglycol ether chains, the polyglycol ether chainsmay have a conventional homolog distribution, although they preferablyhave a narrow homolog distribution. The anionic surfactants are used inquantities of 0.1 to 6% by weight, preferably in quantities of 0.5 to 5%by weight and more particularly in quantities of 1 to 4% y weight, basedon the pearlizing concentrates. Particularly suitable anionicsurfactants in the preparations according to the invention are alkylether sulfates.

Alkyl Ether Sulfates

Alkyl ether sulfates (“ether sulfates”) are known anionic surfactantswhich, on an industrial scale, are produced by SO₃ or chlorosulfonicacid (CSA) sulfation of fatty alcohol or oxoalcohol polyglycol ethersand subsequent neutralization. Ether sulfates suitable for use inaccordance with the invention correspond to formula (X):R¹⁹O—(CH₂CH₂O)_(a)SO₃X   (X)in which R¹⁹ is a linear or branched alkyl and/or alkenyl groupcontaining 6 to 22 carbon atoms, a is a number of 1 to 10 and X is analkali metal and/or alkaline earth metal, ammonium, alkylammonium,alkanolammonium or glucammonium. Typical examples are the sulfates ofaddition products of on average 1 to 10 and more particularly 2 to 5 molethylene oxide onto caproic alcohol, caprylic alcohol, 2-ethylhexylalcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristylalcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearylalcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, arachylalcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidylalcohol and technical mixtures thereof in the form of their sodiumand/or magnesium salts. The ether sulfates may have both a conventionalhomolog distribution and a narrow homolog distribution. It isparticularly preferred to use ether sulfates based on adducts of, onaverage, 2 to 6 mol and preferably 2 to 3 mol ethylene oxide withtechnical C_(12/14) or C_(12/18) coconut fatty alcohol fractions in theform of their sodium and/or magnesium salts.Zwitterionic and Amphoteric Surfactants

In addition, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants may be used as animportant optional component (d). Zwitterionic surfactants aresurface-active compounds which contain at least one quaternary ammoniumgroup and at least one carboxylate and one sulfonate group in themolecule. Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are theso-called betaines, such as the N-alkyl-N,N-dimethyl ammoniumglycinates, for example cocoalkyl dimethyl ammonium glycinate,N-acylaminopropyl-N,N-dimethyl ammonium glycinates, for examplecocoacylaminopropyl dimethyl ammonium glycinate.

Amphoteric surfactants are surface-active compounds which, in additionto a C_(8/18) alkyl or acyl group, contain at least one free amino groupand at least one —COOH— or —SO₃H— group in the molecule and which arecapable of forming inner salts. Examples of suitable amphotericsurfactants are N-alkyl glycines, N-alkyl propionic acids,N-alkylamino-butyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids,N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkyl-amidopropyl glycines, N-alkyl taurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkyl-aminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acidscontaining around 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group. Particularlypreferred amphoteric surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate,cocoacylaminoethyl aminopropionate and C_(12/18) acyl sarcosine.

Particularly preferred zwitterionic or amphoteric surfactants arebetaines and, of these, especially the fatty acid amide derivative knownunder the CTFA name of Cocoamidopropyl Betaine. Betaines are preferablyused in quantities of 0.5 to 10% by weight and more particularly inquantities of3 to 8% by weight, based on the quantity of the pearlizingconcentrates.

With regard to the physicochemical stability of the concentrates, it hasproved to be particularly suitable to use the anionicemulsifiers/surfactants in the form of mixtures with amphoteric orzwitterionic surfactants (amphoteric surfactants) in which thepercentage content of amphoteric surfactants may be up to twice as highas that of the anionic emulsifiers.

The total percentage content of emulsifiers consisting of nonionic,anionic and optionally amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants should bebelow 25% by weight, preferably below 20% by weight and moreparticularly between 10 and 18% by weight, based on the quantity of thepearlizing concentrates.

Polyol Esters

Polyol esters which—as co-emulsifiers—form component (c) may be selectedfrom the following groups of compounds:

-   -   (c1) partial esters of glycerol and/or sorbitan with        unsaturated, linear or saturated, branched fatty acids        containing 12 to 22 carbon atoms and/or hydroxycarboxylic acids        containing 3 to 18 carbon atoms and adducts thereof with 1 to 30        mol ethylene oxide;    -   (c2) partial esters of polyglycerol (average degree of        self-condensation 2 to 8), polyethylene glycol (molecular weight        400 to 5000), trimethylolpropane, pentaerythritol, sugar        alcohols (for example sorbitol), alkyl glucosides (for example        methyl glucoside, butyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside) and        polyglucosides (for example cellulose) with saturated and/or        unsaturated, linear or branched fatty acids containing 12 to 22        carbon atoms and/or hydroxycarboxylic acids containing 3 to 18        carbon atoms and adducts thereof with 1 to 30 mol ethylene        oxide;    -   (c3) mixed esters of pentaerythritol, fatty acids, citric acid        and fatty alcohol according to DE 1165574 PS and/or mixed esters        of fatty acids containing 6 to 22 carbon atoms, methyl glucose        and polyols, preferably glycerol or polyglycerol.

Typical examples of suitable partial glycerides are hydroxystearic acidmonoglyceride, hydroxystearic acid diglyceride, isostearic acidmonoglyceride, isostearic acid diglyceride, oleic acid monoglyceride,oleic acid diglyceride, ricinoleic acid monoglyceride, ricinoleic aciddiglyceride, linoleic acid monoglyceride, linoleic acid diglyceride,linolenic acid monoglyceride, linolenic acid diglyceride, erucic acidmonoglyceride, erucic acid diglyceride, tartaric acid monoglyceride,tartaric acid diglyceride, citric acid monoglyceride, citric aciddiglyceride, malic acid monoglyceride, malic acid diglyceride andtechnical mixtures thereof which may still contain small quantities oftriglyceride from the production process. Addition products of 1 to 30and preferably 5 to 10 mol ethylene oxide with the partial glyceridesmentioned are also suitable.

Suitable sorbitan esters are sorbitan monoisostearate, sorbitansesquiisostearate, sorbitan diisostearate, sorbitan triisostearate,sorbitan monooleate, sorbitan sesquioleate, sorbitan dioleate, sorbitantrioleate, sorbitan monoerucate, sorbitan sesquierucate, sorbitandierucate, sorbitan trierucate, sorbitan monoricinoleate, sorbitansesquiricinoleate, sorbitan diricinoleate, sorbitan triricinoleate,sorbitan monohydroxystearate, sorbitan sesquihydroxystearate, sorbitandihydroxystearate, sorbitan trihydroxy-stearate, sorbitan monotartrate,sorbitan sesquitartrate, sorbitan ditartrate, sorbitan tritartrate,sorbitan monocitrate, sorbitan sesquicitrate, sorbitan dicitrate,sorbitan tricitrate, sorbitan monomaleate, sorbitan sesquimaleate,sorbitan dimaleate, sorbitan trimaleate and technical mixtures thereof.Addition products of 1 to 30 and preferably 5 to 10 mol ethylene oxideonto the sorbitan esters mentioned are also suitable.

Typical examples of suitable polyglycerol esters are Polyglyceryl-2Dipolyhydroxystearate (Dehymuls® PGPH), Polyglycerin-3-Diisostearate(Lameform® TGI), Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate (Isolan® GI 34),Polyglyceryl-3 Oleate, Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate(Isolan® PDI), Poly-glyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate (Tego Care®450), Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax (Cera Bellina®), Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate(Polyglycerol Caprate T2010/90), Polyglyceryl-3 Cetyl Ether (Chimexane®NL), Polyglyceryl-3 Distearate (Cremophor® GS 32) and PolyglycerylPolyricinoleate (Admul® WOL 1403), Polyglyceryl Dimerate Isostearate andmixtures thereof.

Examples of other suitable polyolesters are the mono-, di- and triestersof trimethylol propane or pentaerythritol with lauric acid, cocofattyacid, tallow fatty acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, oleic acid,behenic acid and the like optionally reacted with 1 to 30 mol ethyleneoxide.

Preferred polyol esters for the purposes of the present invention arepolyglycol esters in the form of partial glycerides with 1 to 30 andpreferably 5 to 10 mol ethylene oxide. They are used in quantities of0.1 to 8% by weight, preferably in quantities of 1 to 7% by weight andmore particularly in quantities of 2 to 5% by weight, based on thequantity of the pearlizing concentrates.

The quantity ratio of nonionic surfactants from the polyol ester groupto anionic surfactants advantageous for viscosity adjustment andphysicochemical stability is 2:1 to 0.8:1 and preferably 1.2:1 to 1:1while the ratio of pearlizing waxes to polyol esters is 12:1 to 7:1 andpreferably 11:1 to 9:1. Outside these quantity ratios, unstableformulations with little pearlescence or concentrates unsuitable forfurther processing because of their viscosity are obtained.

Polyols

In another embodiment of the invention, the concentrates mayadditionally contain polyols as an optional component (e) for reducingviscosity. Suitable polyols preferably contain 2 to 15 carbon atoms andat least two hydroxyl groups. The polyols may contain other functionalgroups, more especially amino groups, or may be modified with nitrogen.Typical examples are

-   -   glycerol;    -   alkylene glycols such as, for example, ethylene glycol,        diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene        glycol and polyethylene glycols with an average molecular weight        of 100 to 1000 dalton;    -   technical oligoglycerol mixtures with a degree of        self-condensation of 1.5 to 10 such as, for example, technical        diglycerol mixtures with a diglycerol content of 40 to 50% by        weight;    -   methylol compounds such as, in particular, trimethylol ethane,        trimethylol propane, trimethylol butane, pentaerythritol and        dipentaerythritol;    -   lower alkyl glucosides, particularly those containing 1 to 8        carbon atoms in the alkyl group, for example methyl and butyl        glucoside;    -   sugar alcohols containing 5 to 12 carbon atoms, for example        sorbitol or mannitol;    -   sugars containing 5 to 12 carbon atoms, for example glucose or        sucrose;    -   amino sugars, for example glucamine;    -   dialcoholamines, such as diethanolamine or        2-aminopropane-1,3-diol.

The polyols are used in quantities of typically 0.1 to 10% by weight,preferably 0.5 to 5% by weight and more particularly 0.7 to 1% byweight, based on the quantity of the pearlizing concentrates. If largerquantities of polyol, preferably glycerol or ethylene glycol, are used,the concentrates are simultaneously stabilized against microbialinfestation.

Fatty Alcohol Ethoxylates

“Free from fatty alcohol ethoxylates” in the context of the presentinvention means that the pearlizing concentrates contain less than 0.4%by weight, preferably less than 0.2% by weight and more particularlyless than 0.1% by weight fatty alcohol ethoxylates.

Fatty alcohol ethoxylates are called fatty alcohol or oxoalcoholethoxylates on the basis of their production and preferably correspondto formula (XI):R²⁰O(CH₂CH₂O)_(n)H   (XI)in which R²⁰ is a linear or branched alkyl and/or alkenyl groupcontaining 6 to 22 carbon atoms and n is a number of 1 to 50. Typicalexamples are the adducts of, on average, 1 to 50, preferably 5 to 40 andmore particularly 10 to 25 mol with caproic alcohol, caprylic alcohol,2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecylalcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, stearylalcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol,petroselinyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenylalcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol and the technical mixturesthereof obtained, for example, in the high-pressure hydrogenation oftechnical methyl esters based on fats and oils or aldehydes fromRoelen's oxo synthesis and as monomer fraction in the dimerization ofunsaturated fatty alcohols. Adducts of 10 to 40 mol ethylene oxide withtechnical C₁₂₋₁₈ fatty alcohols, for example coconut oil, palm oil, palmkernel oil or tallow fatty alcohol, are preferred.Production Process

In one preferred embodiment, which is also a subject of the invention,the pearlizing concentrates are produced by preparing a mixture ofcomponents (a), (b) and (c), heating it to a temperature 1 to 30° C.above the melting point of the mixture, mixing it with the necessaryquantity of water having substantially the same temperature and thencooling the mixture to room temperature. In an alternative method ofproduction, a concentrated aqueous surfactant paste may be initiallyintroduced, the pearlizing wax stirred in while heating and the mixturesubsequently diluted with more water to the required concentration orthe mixing step may be carried out in the presence of polymerichydrophilic thickeners such as, for example, hydroxypropyl celluloses,xanthan gum or polymers of the Carbomer type.

Commercial Applications

The pearlizing concentrates according to the invention typically havethe following composition:

-   -   (a) 20 to 45% by weight pearlizing waxes,    -   (b) 0.1 to 6% by weight anionic surfactants,    -   (c) 0.1 to 8% by weight nonionic emulsifiers from the polyol        ester group,        with the provisos that the quantities shown add up to 100% by        weight with water and optionally other auxiliaries and        additives, the quantity ratio of pearlizing waxes (a) to        nonionic emulsifiers from the group of polyol esters (c) is in        the range from 12:1 to 7:1 and the quantity ratio of polyol        esters to anionic surfactants is in the range from 2:1 to 0.8:1.

The pearlizing concentrates according to the invention preferably havethe following composition:

-   -   (a) 25 to 40% by weight pearlizing waxes,    -   (b) 0.5 to 5% by weight anionic surfactants,    -   (c) 1 to 7% by weight nonionic emulsifiers from the polyol ester        group,        with the provisos that the quantities shown add up to 100% by        weight with water and optionally other auxiliaries and        additives, the quantity ratio of pearlizing waxes (a) to        nonionic emulsifiers from the group of polyol esters (c) is in        the range from 12:1 to 7:1 and the quantity ratio of polyol        esters to anionic surfactants is in the range from 2:1 to 0.8:1.

The particularly preferred composition of the pearlizing concentratesaccording to the invention is:

-   -   (a) 27 to 39% by weight pearlizing waxes,    -   (b) 1 to 4% by weight anionic surfactants,    -   (c) 2 to 5% by weight nonionic emulsifiers from the polyol ester        group,    -   (d) 3 to 8% by weight betaines,        with the provisos that the quantities shown add up to 100% by        weight with water and optionally other auxiliaries and        additives, the quantity ratio of pearlizing waxes (a) to        nonionic emulsifiers from the group of polyol esters (c) is in        the range from 11:1 to 9:1 and the quantity ratio of polyol        esters to anionic surfactants is in the range from 1.2:1 to 1:1.

The pearlizing concentrates according to the invention are suitable foropacifying surface-active preparations such as, for example, hairshampoos or manual dishwashing detergents. To produce opacified andpearlescent, liquid water-based preparations of water-solublesurfactants, the pearlizing concentrates are added to the clearwater-based preparations in a quantity of 0.5 to 40% by weight,preferably 1 to 20% by weight and more particularly 2 to 10% by weight,normally at 0 to 40° C., and are distributed therein by stirring.

Cosmetic and/or Pharmaceutical Preparations

The pearlizing concentrates according to the invention may be used forthe production of cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical preparations, forexample hair shampoos, hair lotions, foam baths, shower baths, creams,gels, lotions, alcoholic and aqueous/alcoholic solutions, emulsions,wax/fat compounds, stick preparations, powders or ointments. Thesepreparations may also contain mild surfactants, oil components,superfatting agents, consistency factors, thickeners, polymers, siliconecompounds, fats, waxes, stabilizers, biogenic agents, deodorizers,antiperspirants, antidandruff agents, film formers, swelling agents, UVprotection factors, antioxidants, hydrotropes, preservatives, insectrepellents, self-tanning agents, solubilizers, perfume oils, dyes andthe like as further auxiliaries and additives.

Typical examples of suitable mild, i.e. particularly dermatologicallycompatible, surfactants are fatty alcohol polyglycol ether sulfates,monoglyceride sulfates, mono- and/or dialkyl sulfosuccinates, fatty acidisethionates, fatty acid sarcosinates, fatty acid taurides, fatty acidglutamates, α-olefin sulfonates, ether carboxylic acids, alkyloligoglucosides, fatty acid glucamides, alkylamidobetaines and/orprotein fatty acid condensates, preferably based on wheat proteins.

Besides the polyol esters, suitable other nonionic emulsifiers are, forexample, nonionic surfactants from at least one of the following groups:

-   -   (1) alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides containing 8 to 22 carbon        atoms in the alkyl group and ethoxylated analogs thereof;    -   (2) products of the additon of 1 to 15 mol ethylene oxide onto        castor oil and/or hydrogenated castor oil;    -   (3) products of the addition of 15 to 60 mol ethylene oxide onto        castor oil and/or hydrogenated castor oil;    -   (4) mono-, di- and trialkyl phosphates and mono-, di- and/or        tri-PEG-alkyl phosphates and salts thereof;    -   (5) wool wax alcohols;    -   (6) polysiloxane/polyalkyl polyether copolymers and        corresponding derivatives;    -   (7) polyalkylene glycols and    -   (8) glycerol carbonate.

The addition products of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide ontoalkylphenols or onto castor oil are known commercially availableproducts. They are homolog mixtures of which the average degree ofalkoxylation corresponds to the ratio between the quantities of ethyleneoxide and/or propylene oxide and substrate with which the additionreaction is carried out. C_(8/18) alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides, theirproduction and their use are known from the prior art. They are producedin particular by reacting glucose or oligosaccharides with primary C₈₋₁₈alcohols. So far as the glycoside unit is concerned, both monoglycosidesin which a cyclic sugar unit is attached to the fatty alcohol by aglycoside bond and oligomeric glycosides with a degree ofoligomerization of preferably up to about 8 are suitable. The degree ofoligomerization is a statistical mean value on which the homologdistribution typical of such technical products is based.

Suitable oil components are, for example, Guerbet alcohols based onfatty alcohols containing 6 to 18 and preferably 8 to 10 carbon atoms,esters of linear C₆₋₂₂ fatty acids with linear C₆₋₂₂ fatty alcohols,esters of branched C₆₋₁₃ carboxylic acids with linear C₆₋₂₂ fattyalcohols such as, for example, myristyl myristate, myristyl palmitate,myristyl stearate, myristyl isostearate, myristyl oleate, myristylbehenate, myristyl erucate, cetyl myristate, cetyl palmitate, cetylstearate, cetyl isostearate, cetyl oleate, cetyl behenate, cetylerucate, stearyl myristate, stearyl palmitate, stearyl stearate, stearylisostearate, stearyl oleate, stearyl behenate, stearyl erucate,isostearyl myristate, isostearyl palmitate, isostearyl stearate,isostearyl isostearate, isostearyl oleate, isostearyl behenate,isostearyl oleate, oleyl myristate, oleyl palmitate, oleyl stearate,oleyl isostearate, oleyl oleate, oleyl behenate, oleyl erucate, behenylmyristate, behenyl palmitate, behenyl stearate, behenyl isostearate,behenyl oleate, behenyl behenate, behenyl erucate, erucyl myristate,erucyl palmitate, erucyl stearate, erucyl isostearate, erucyl oleate,erucyl behenate and erucyl erucate. Also suitable are esters of linearC₆₋₂₂ fatty acids with branched alcohols, more particularly 2-ethylhexanol, esters of hydroxycarboxylic acids with linear or branched C₆₋₂₂fatty alcohols, more especially Dioctyl Malate, esters of linear and/orbranched fatty acids with polyhydric alcohols (for example propyleneglycol, dimer diol or trimer triol) and/or Guerbet alcohols,triglycerides based on C₆₋₁₀ fatty acids, liquid mono-/di-/tri-glyceridemixtures based on C₆₋₁₈ fatty acids, esters of C₆₋₂₂ fatty alcoholsand/or Guerbet alcohols with aromatic carboxylic acids, moreparticularly benzoic acid, esters of C₂₋₁₂ dicarboxylic acids withlinear or branched alcohols containing 1 to 22 carbon atoms or polyolscontaining 2 to 10 carbon atoms and 2 to 6 hydroxyl groups, vegetableoils, branched primary alcohols, substituted cyclohexanes, linear andbranched C₆₋₂₂ fatty alcohol carbonates, Guerbet carbonates, esters ofbenzoic acid with linear and/or branched C₆₋₂₂ alcohols (for exampleFinsolv® TN), linear or branched, symmetrical or nonsymmetrical dialkylethers containing 6 to 22 carbon atoms per alkyl group, ring openingproducts of epoxidized fatty acid esters with polyols, silicone oilsand/or aliphatic or naphthenic hydrocarbons, for example squalane,squalene or dialkyl cyclohexanes.

Superfatting agents may be selected from such substances as, forexample, lanolin and lecithin and also polyethoxylated or acylatedlanolin and lecithin derivatives, polyol fatty acid esters,monoglycerides and fatty acid alkanolamides, the fatty acidalkanolamides also serving as foam stabilizers.

The consistency factors mainly used are fatty alcohols or hydroxyfattyalcohols containing 12 to 22 and preferably 16 to 18 carbon atoms andalso partial glycerides, fatty acids or hydroxyfatty acids. Acombination of these substances with alkyl oligoglucosides and/or fattyacid N-methyl glucamides of the same chain length and/or polyglycerolpoly-12-hydroxystearates is preferably used.

Suitable thickeners are, for example, Aerosil types (hydrophilicsilicas), polysaccharides, more especially xanthan gum, guar-guar,agar-agar, alginates and tyloses, carboxymethyl cellulose andhydroxyethyl cellulose, also relatively high molecular weightpolyethylene glycol monoesters and diesters of fatty acids,polyacrylates (for example Carbopols® [Goodrich] or Synthalens®[Sigma]), polyacrylamides, polyvinyl alcohol and polyvinyl pyrrolidone,surfactants such as, for example, ethoxylated fatty acid glycerides,esters of fatty acids with polyols, for example pentaerythritol ortrimethylol propane, narrow-range fatty alcohol ethoxylates or alkyloligoglucosides and electrolytes, such as sodium chloride and ammoniumchloride.

Suitable cationic polymers are, for example, cationic cellulosederivatives such as, for example, the quaternized hydroxyethyl celluloseobtainable from Amerchol under the name of Polymer JR 400®, cationicstarch, copolymers of diallyl ammonium salts and acrylamides,quaternized vinyl pyrrolidone/vinyl imidazole polymers such as, forexample, Luviquat® (BASF), condensation products of polyglycols andamines, quaternized collagen polypeptides such as, for example,Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen (Lamequat® L, Grünau),quaternized wheat polypeptides, polyethyleneimine, cationic siliconepolymers such as, for example, amodimethicone, copolymers of adipic acidand dimethylamino-hydroxypropyl diethylenetriamine (Cartaretine®,Sandoz), copolymers of acrylic acid with dimethyl diallyl ammoniumchloride (Merquat® 550, Chemviron), polyaminopolyamides as described,for example, in FR 2252840 A and crosslinked water-soluble polymersthereof, cationic chitin derivatives such as, for example, quaternizedchitosan, optionally in micro-crystalline distribution, condensationproducts of dihaloalkyls, for example dibromobutane, withbis-dialkylamines, for example bis-dimethylamino-1,3-propane, cationicguar gum such as, for example, Jaguar®CBS, Jaguar®C-17, Jaguar®C-16 ofCelanese, quaternized ammonium salt polymers such as, for example,Mirapol® A-15, Mirapol® AD-1, Mirapol® AZ-1 of Miranol.

Suitable anionic, zwitterionic, amphoteric and nonionic polymers are,for example, vinyl acetate/crotonic acid copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone/vinyl acrylate copolymers, vinyl acetate/butylmaleate/isobornyl acrylate copolymers, methyl vinylether/maleicanhydride copolymers and esters thereof, uncrosslinked andpolyol-crosslinked polyacrylic acids, acrylamidopropyl trimethylammoniumchloride/acrylate copolymers, octylacrylamide/methylmethacrylate/tert.-butylaminoethyl methacrylate/2-hydroxypropylmethacrylate copolymers, polyvinyl pyrrolidone, vinyl pyrrolidone/vinylacetate copolymers, vinyl pyrrolidone/dimethylaminoethylmethacrylate/vinyl caprolactam terpolymers and optionally derivatizedcellulose ethers and silicones.

Suitable silicone compounds are, for example, dimethyl polysiloxanes,methylphenyl polysiloxanes, cyclic silicones and amino-, fatty acid-,alcohol-, polyether-, epoxy-, fluorine-, glycoside- and/oralkyl-modified silicone compounds which may be both liquid andresin-like at room temperature. Other suitable silicone compounds aresimethicones which are mixtures of dimethicones with an average chainlength of 200 to 300 dimethylsiloxane units and hydrogenated silicates.A detailed overview of suitable volatile silicones can be found in Toddet al. in Cosm. Toil. 91, 27 (1976).

Typical examples of fats are glycerides while suitable waxes are interalia natural waxes such as, for example, candelilla wax, carnauba wax,Japan wax, espartograss wax, cork wax, guaruma wax, rice oil wax, sugarcane wax, ouricury wax, montan wax, beeswax, shellac wax, spermaceti,lanolin (wool wax), uropygial fat, ceresine, ozocerite (earth wax),petrolatum, paraffin waxes, microwaxes; chemically modified waxes (hardwaxes) such as, for example, montan ester waxes, sasol waxes,hydrogenated jojoba waxes and synthetic waxes such as, for example,polyalkylene waxes and polyethylene glycol waxes.

Metal salts of fatty acids such as, for example, magnesium, aluminiumand/or zinc stearate or ricinoleate may be used as stabilizers.

In the context of the invention, biogenic agents are, for example,tocopherol, tocopherol acetate, tocopherol palmitate, ascorbic acid,deoxyribonucleic acid, retinol, bisabolol, allantoin, phytantriol,panthenol, AHA acids, amino acids, ceramides, pseudoceramides, essentialoils, plant extracts and vitamin complexes.

Cosmetic deodorants counteract, mask or eliminate body odors. Body odorsare formed through the action of skin bacteria on apocrine perspirationwhich results in the formation of unpleasant-smelling degradationproducts. Accordingly, deodorants contain active principles which act asgerm inhibitors, enzyme inhibitors, odor absorbers or odor maskers.

Basically, suitable germ inhibitors are any substances which act againstgram-positive bacteria such as, for example, 4-hydroxybenzoic acidandsalts and esters thereof,N-(4-chlorophenyl)-N′-(3,4-dichlorophenyl)-urea,2,4,4′-trichloro-2′-hydroxydiphenylether (triclosan),4-chloro-3,5-dimethylphenol,2,2′-methylene-bis-(6-bromo-4-chlorophenol),3-methyl4-(1-methylethyl)-phenol, 2-benzyl-4-chlorophenol,3-(4-chloro-phenoxy)-propane-1,2-diol, 3-iodo-2-propinyl butylcarbamate, chlorhexidine, 3,4,4′-trichlorocarbanilide (TTC),antibacterial perfumes, thymol, thyme oil, eugenol, nettle oil, menthol,mint oil, farnesol, phenoxyethanol, glycerol monolaurate (GML),diglycerol monocaprate (DMC), salicylic acid-N-alkylamides such as, forexample, salicylic acid-n-octyl amide or salicylic acid-n-decyl amide.

Suitable enzyme inhibitors are, for example, esterase inhibitors.Esterase inhibitors are preferably trialkyl citrates, such as trimethylcitrate, tripropyl citrate, triisopropyl citrate, tributyl citrate and,in particular, triethyl citrate (Hydagen® CAT, Henkel KGaA, Düsseldorf,FRG). Esterase inhibitors inhibit enzyme activity and thus reduce odorformation. Other esterase inhibitors are sterol sulfates or phosphatessuch as, for example, lanosterol, cholesterol, campesterol, stigmasteroland sitosterol sulfate or phosphate, dicarboxylic acids and estersthereof, for example glutaric acid, glutaric acid monoethyl ester,glutaric acid diethyl ester, adipic acid, adipic acid monoethyl ester,adipic acid diethyl ester, malonic acid and malonic acid diethyl ester,hydroxycarboxylic acids and esters thereof, for example citric acid,malic acid, tartaric acid or tartaric acid diethyl ester, and zincglycinate.

Suitable odor absorbers are substances which are capable of absorbingand largely retaining the odor-forming compounds. They reduce thepartial pressure of the individual components and thus also reduce therate at which they spread. An important requirement in this regard isthat perfumes must remain unimpaired. Odor absorbers are not activeagainst bacteria. They contain, for example, a complex zinc salt ofricinoleic acid or special perfumes of largely neutral odor known to theexpert as “fixateurs” such as, for example, extracts of labdanum orstyrax or certain abietic acid derivatives as their principal component.Odor maskers are perfumes or perfume oils which, besides theirodor-masking function, impart their particular perfume note to thedeodorants. Suitable perfume oils are, for example, mixtures of naturaland synthetic fragrances. Natural fragrances include the extracts ofblossoms, stems and leaves, fruits, fruit peel, roots, woods, herbs andgrasses, needles and branches, resins and balsams. Animal raw materials,for example civet and beaver, may also be used. Typical syntheticperfume compounds are products of the ester, ether, aldehyde, ketone,alcohol and hydrocarbon type. Examples of perfume compounds of the estertype are benzyl acetate, p-tert.butyl cyclohexylacetate, linalylacetate, phenyl ethyl acetate, linalyl benzoate, benzyl formate, allylcyclohexyl propionate, styrallyl propionate and benzyl salicylate.Ethers include, for example, benzyl ethyl ether while aldehydes include,for example, the linear alkanals containing 8 to 18 carbon atoms,citral, citronellal, citronellyloxyacetaldehyde, cyclamen aldehyde,hydroxy-citronellal, lilial and bourgeonal. Examples of suitable ketonesare the ionones and methyl cedryl ketone. Suitable alcohols are anethol,citronellol, eugenol, isoeugenol, geraniol, linalool, phenylethylalcohol and terpineol. The hydrocarbons mainly include the terpenes andbalsams. However, it is preferred to use mixtures of different perfumecompounds which, together, produce an agreeable fragrance. Othersuitable perfume oils are essential oils of relatively low volatilitywhich are mostly used as aroma components. Examples are sage oil,camomile oil, clove oil, melissa oil, mint oil, cinnamon leaf oil,lime-blossom oil, juniper berry oil, vetiver oil, olibanum oil, galbanumoil, ladanum oil and lavendin oil. The following are preferably usedeither individually or in the form of mixtures: bergamot oil,dihydromyrcenol, lilial, lyral, citronellol, phenylethyl alcohol,(α-hexylcinnamaldehyde, geraniol, benzyl acetone, cyclamen aldehyde,linalool, Boisambrene Forte, Ambroxan, indole, hedione, sandelice,citrus oil, mandarin oil, orange oil, allylamyl glycolate, cyclovertal,lavendin oil, clary oil, β-damascone, geranium oil bourbon, cyclohexylsalicylate, Vertofix Coeur, Iso-E-Super, Fixolide NP, evernyl, iraldeingamma, phenylacetic acid, geranyl acetate, benzyl acetate, rose oxide,romillat, irotyl and floramat.

Antiperspirants reduce perspiration and thus counteract underarm wetnessand body odor by influencing the activity of the eccrine sweat glands.Aqueous or water-free antiperspirant formulations typically contain thefollowing ingredients:

-   -   (a) astringent active principles,    -   (b) oil components,    -   (c) nonionic emulsifiers,    -   (d) co-emulsifiers,    -   (e) consistency factors,    -   (f) auxiliaries in the form of, for example, thickeners or        complexing agents and/or    -   (g) nonaqueous solvents such as, for example, ethanol, propylene        glycol and/or glycerol.

Suitable astringent active principles of antiperspirants are, above all,salts of aluminium, zirconium or zinc. Suitable antihydrotic agents ofthis type are, for example, aluminium chloride, aluminium chlorohydrate,aluminium dichlorohydrate, aluminium sesquichlorohydrate and complexcompounds thereof, for example with 1,2-propylene glycol, aluminiumhydroxyallantoinate, aluminium chloride tartrate, aluminium zirconiumtrichlorohydrate, aluminium zirconium tetrachlorohydrate, aluminiumzirconium pentachlorohydrate and complex compounds thereof, for examplewith amino acids, such as glycine. Oil-soluble and water-solubleauxiliaries typically encountered in antiperspirants may also be presentin relatively small amounts. Oil-soluble auxiliaries such as theseinclude, for example,

-   -   inflammation-inhibiting, skin-protecting or pleasant-smelling        essential oils,    -   synthetic skin-protecting agents and/or    -   oil-soluble perfume oils.

Typical water-soluble additives are, for example, preservatives,water-soluble perfumes, pH regulators, for example buffer mixtures,water-soluble thickeners, for example water-soluble natural or syntheticpolymers such as, for example, xanthan gum, hydroxyethyl cellulose,polyvinyl pyrrolidone or high molecular weight polyethylene oxides.

Suitable antidandruff agents are climbazol, octopirox and zincpyrithione.

Standard film formers are, for example, chitosan, microcrystallinechitosan, quaternized chitosan, polyvinyl pyrrolidone, vinylpyrrolidone/vinyl acetate copolymers, polymers of the acrylic acidseries, quaternary cellulose derivatives, collagen, hyaluronic acid andsalts thereof and similar compounds.

Suitable swelling agents for aqueous phases are montmorillonites, clayminerals, Pemulen and alkyl-modified Carbopol types (Goodrich). Othersuitable polymers and swelling agents can be found in R. Lochhead'sreview in Cosm. Toil. 108, 95 (1993).

Examples of UV protection factors include organic substances (lightfilters) which are liquid or crystalline at room temperature and whichare capable of absorbing ultraviolet radiation and of releasing theenergy absorbed in the form of longer-wave radiation, for example heat.UV-B filters can be oil-soluble or water-soluble. The following areexamples of oil-soluble substances:

-   -   3-benzylidene camphor or 3-benzylidene norcamphor and        derivatives thereof, for example        3-(4-methylbenzylidene)-camphor, as described in EP 0693471 B1;    -   4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably        4-(dimethylamino)-benzoic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester,        4-(dimethylamino)-benzoic acid-2-octyl ester and        4-(dimethylamino)-benzoic acid amyl ester;    -   esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic        acid-2-ethylhexyl ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid propyl ester,        4-methoxycinnamic acid isoamyl ester, 2-cyano-3,3-phenylcinnamic        acid-2-ethylhexyl ester (Octocrylene);    -   esters of salicylic acid, preferably salicylic acid-2-ethylhexyl        ester, salicylic acid-4-isopropylbenzyl ester, salicylic acid        homomenthyl ester;    -   derivatives of benzophenone, preferably        2-hydroxy4-methoxybenzophenone,        2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4′-methylbenzophenone,        2,2′-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone;    -   esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably 4-methoxybenzalmalonic        acid di-2-ethylhexyl ester;    -   triazine derivatives such as, for example,        2,4,6-trianilino-(p-carbo-2′-ethyl-1′-hexyloxy)-1,3,5-triazine        and Octyl Triazone, as described in EP 0818450 A1, or Dioctyl        Butamido Triazine (Uvasorb® HEB);    -   propane-1,3-diones such as, for example,        1-(4-tert.butylphenyl)-3-(4′-methoxyphenyl)-propane-1,3-dione;    -   ketotricyclo(5.2.1)decane derivatives, as described in EP        0694521 B1.

Suitable water-soluble substances are

-   -   2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and alkali metal, alkaline        earth metal, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium and        glucammonium salts thereof;    -   sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones, preferably        2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and salts        thereof;    -   sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor such as, for        example, 4-(2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl)-benzene sulfonic acid and        2-methyl-5-(2-oxo-3-bornylidene)-sulfonic acid and salts        thereof.

Typical UV-A filters are, in particular, derivatives of benzoyl methanesuch as, for example1-(4′-tert.butylphenyl)-3-(4′-methoxyphenyl)-propane-1,3-dione,4-tert-butyl-4′-methoxydibenzoylmethane (Parsol 1789),1-phenyl-3-(4′-isopropylphenyl)-propane-1,3-dione and the eneaminecompounds described in DE 19712033 A1 (BASF). The UV-A and UV-B filtersmay of course also be used in the form of mixtures. Besides the solublesubstances mentioned, insoluble pigments, i.e. finely dispersed metaloxides or salts, may also be used for this purpose. Examples of suitablemetal oxides are, in particular, zinc oxide and titanium dioxide andalso oxides of iron, zirconium, silicon, manganese, aluminium and ceriumand mixtures thereof. Silicates (talcum), barium sulfate and zincstearate may be used as salts. The oxides and salts are used in the formof the pigments for skin-care and skin-protecting emulsions. Theparticles should have an average diameter of less than 100 nm,preferably from 5 to 50 nm and more preferably from 15 to 30 nm. Theymay be spherical in shape although ellipsoidal particles or othernon-spherical particles may also be used. The pigments may also besurface-treated, i.e. hydrophilicized or hydrophobicized. Typicalexamples are coated titanium dioxides such as, for example, TitandioxidT 805 (Degussa) or Eusolex® T2000 (Merck). Suitable hydrophobic coatingmaterials are, above all, silicones and particularly trialkoxyoctylsilanes or simethicones. So-called micro- or nanopigments are preferablyused in sun protection products. Micronized zinc oxide is preferablyused. Other suitable UV filters can be found in P. Finkel's review inSÖFW-Journal 122, 543 (1996).

Besides the two above-mentioned groups of primary protection factors,secondary protection factors of the antioxidant type may also be used.Secondary sun protection factors of the antioxidant type interrupt thephotochemical reaction chain which is initiated when UV rays penetrateinto the skin. Typical examples of suitable antioxidants are amino acids(for example glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophane) and derivativesthereof, imidazoles (for example urocanic acid) and derivatives thereof,peptides, such as D,L-carnosine, D-carnosine, L-carnosine andderivatives thereof (for example anserine), carotinoids, carotenes (forexample α-carotene, β-carotene, lycopene) and derivatives thereof,chlorogenic acid and derivatives thereof, liponic acid and derivativesthereof (for example dihydroliponic acid), aurothioglucose,propylthiouracil and other thiols (for example thioredoxine,glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and glycosyl, N-acetyl,methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl,γ-linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters thereof) and their salts,dilaurylthiodipropionate, distearylthiodipropionate, thiodipropionicacid and derivatives thereof (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids,nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) and sulfoximine compounds (forexample butionine sulfoximines, homocysteine sulfoximine, butioninesulfones, penta-, hexa- and hepta-thionine sulfoximine) in very smallcompatible dosages (for example pmol to μmol/kg), also (metal) chelators(for example α-hydroxyfatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid,lactoferrine), α-hydroxy acids (for example citric acid, lactic acid,malic acid), humic acid, bile acid, bile extracts, bilirubin,biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and derivatives thereof, unsaturated fatty acidsand derivatives thereof (for example γ-linolenic acid, linoleic acid,oleic acid), folic acid and derivatives thereof, ubiquinone andubiquinol and derivatives thereof, vitamin C and derivatives thereof(for example ascorbyl palmitate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbylacetate), tocopherols and derivatives (for example vitamin E acetate),vitamin A and derivatives (vitamin A palmitate) and coniferyl benzoateof benzoin resin, rutinic acid and derivatives thereof, α-glycosylrutin, ferulic acid, furfurylidene glucitol, carnosine, butylhydroxytoluene, butyl hydroxyanisole, nordihydroguaiac resin acid,nordihydroguaiaretic acid, trihydroxy-butyrophenone, uric acid andderivatives thereof, mannose and derivatives thereof,Superoxid-Dismutase, zinc and derivatives thereof (for example ZnO,ZnSO₄), selenium and derivatives thereof (for example seleniummethionine), stilbenes and derivatives thereof (for example stilbeneoxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and derivatives of these active substancessuitable for the purposes of the invention (salts, esters, ethers,sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids).

In addition, hydrotropes, for example ethanol, isopropyl alcohol orpolyols, may be used to improve flow behavior.

Suitable preservatives are, for example, phenoxyethanol, formaldehydesolution, parabens, pentanediol or sorbic acid and the other classes ofcompounds listed in Appendix 6, Parts A and B of the Kosmetikverordnung(=37 Cosmetics Directive”). Suitable insect repellents areN,N-diethyl-m-toluamide, pentane-1,2-diol or EthylButylacetyl-aminopropionate. A suitable self-tanning agent isdihydroxyacetone.

Suitable perfume oils are mixtures of natural and synthetic fragrances.Natural fragrances include the extracts of blossoms (lily, lavender,rose, jasmine, neroli, ylang-ylang), stems and leaves (geranium,patchouli, petitgrain), fruits (anise, coriander, caraway, juniper),fruit peel (bergamot, lemon, orange), roots (nutmeg, angelica, celery,cardamon, costus, iris, calmus), woods (pinewood, sandalwood, guaiacwood, cedarwood, rosewood), herbs and grasses (tarragon, lemon grass,sage, thyme), needles and branches (spruce, fir, pine, dwarf pine),resins and balsams (galbanum, elemi, benzoin, myrrh, olibanum,opoponax). Animal raw materials, for example civet and beaver, may alsobe used. Typical synthetic perfume compounds are products of the ester,ether, aldehyde, ketone, alcohol and hydrocarbon type. Examples ofperfume compounds of the ester type are benzyl acetate, phenoxyethylisobutyrate, p-tert.butyl cyclohexylacetate, linalyl acetate, dimethylbenzyl carbinyl acetate, phenyl ethyl acetate, linalyl benzoate, benzylformate, ethylmethyl phenyl glycinate, allyl cyclohexyl propionate,styrallyl propionate and benzyl salicylate. Ethers include, for example,benzyl ethyl ether while aldehydes include, for example, the linearalkanals containing 8 to 18 carbon atoms, citral, citronellal,citronellyloxyacetaldehyde, cyclamen aldehyde, hydroxycitronellal,lilial and bourgeonal. Examples of suitable ketones are the ionones,α-isomethylionone and methyl cedryl ketone. Suitable alcohols areanethol, citronellol, eugenol, isoeugenol, geraniol, linalool,phenylethyl alcohol and terpineol. The hydrocarbons mainly include theterpenes and balsams. However, it is preferred to use mixtures ofdifferent perfume compounds which, together, produce an agreeablefragrance. Other suitable perfume oils are essential oils of relativelylow volatility which are mostly used as aroma components. Examples aresage oil, camomile oil, clove oil, melissa oil, mint oil, cinnamon leafoil, lime-blossom oil, juniper berry oil, vetiver oil, olibanum oil,galbanum oil, ladanum oil and lavendin oil. The following are preferablyused either individually or in the form of mixtures: bergamot oil,dihydromyrcenol, lilial, lyral, citronellol, phenylethyl alcohol,α-hexylcinnamaldehyde, geraniol, benzyl acetone, cyclamen aldehyde,linalool, Boisambrene Forte, Ambroxan, indole, hedione, sandelice,citrus oil, mandarin oil, orange oil, allylamyl glycolate, cyclovertal,lavendin oil, clary oil, β-damascone, geranium oil bourbon, cyclohexylsalicylate, Vertofix Coeur, Iso-E-Super, Fixolide NP, evernyl, iraldeingamma, phenylacetic acid, geranyl acetate, benzyl acetate, rose oxide,romillat, irotyl and floramat.

Suitable dyes are any of the substances suitable and approved forcosmetic purposes as listed, for example, in the publication“Kosmetische Färbemittel” of the Farbstoffkommission der DeutschenForschungs-gemeinschaft, Verlag Chemie, Weinheim, 1984, pages 81 to 106.These dyes are normally used in concentrations of 0.001 to 0.1% byweight, based on the mixture as a whole.

EXAMPLES

Pearlizing concentrates (3) and (6) according to the invention and aproduct (9) of somewhat lower concentration contain pearlizing waxes,nonionic surfactants and anionic surfactants in the defined quantityratios. The absence of anionic surfactants leads to high viscosities(1)(2)(4) or to unstable dispersions (7) with little pearlescence.Viscosity was determined by the Brookfield method in an RVT viscosimeter(20° C., 10 r.p.m., spindle 5). Storage stability was evaluated after 6weeks at 25° C. TABLE 1 Composition and performance of pearlizingconcentrates [quantities in % by weight active substance] Composition 12 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 Ethyleneglycol 40.0 40.0 40.0 40.0 40.0 40.0 40.0 40.030.0 Distearate Cutina ® AGS C12/14 Fatty alcohol + 4 9.0 — — — — — 4.04.0 — EO Dehydol ® LS4 C12/14 Fatty alcohol + 6 — 7.0 — — 7.0 — — — — EODehydol ® LS6 PEG-7-Glycerol — — 5.0 5.0 — — — — 4.0 Cocoate Cetiol ® HEPEG-5-Cocoate — — — — — 4.0 — — — Sodium Laureth (2) — — 3.0 — 3.0 3.5 —3.0 3.0 Sulfate Texapon ® N70 Cocamidopropyl 8.0 10.0 7.0 9.0 10.0 6.010.0 8.0 8.0 Betaine Dehyton ® K Benzoic acid 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.50.5 0.5 0.5 Water to 100 Viscosity of the >100,000 >100,000 12600 4500090000 13400 2600 32900 5230 concentrates [mPas] Ratio of pearlizing4.4:1 5.7:1   8:1 8:1 5.7:1  10:1 10:1  10:1 7.5:1 wax to nonionicsurfactant Ratio of Nonionic — — 1.6:1 — 2.3:1 1.2:1 — 1.6:1   2:1surfactant* to anionic surfactant Storage stability Paste, Paste,Readily Paste, Paste, Readily Unstable, Flowable Readily non- non-flowable non- non- flowable separates paste flowable flowable flowableflowable flowable

1-10. (canceled)
 11. A pearlizing composition comprising: (a) from about20 to 45% by weight of a pearlizing wax; (b) from about 0.1 to 6% byweight of an anionic surfactant; (c) from about 0.1 to 8% by weight of apolyol ester; (d) optionally, a surfactant selected from the groupconsisting of a zwitterionic surfactant, an amphoteric surfactant, andmixtures thereof; and (e) water, all weights being based on the weightof the composition, and wherein (a) and (c) are present in thecomposition in a ratio by weight of from about 12:1 to 7:1, and wherein(c) and (b) are present in the composition in a ratio by weight of fromabout 2:1 to 0.8:1.
 12. The composition of claim 11 wherein (b) is analkyl ether sulfate.
 13. The composition of claim 11 wherein (a) ispresent in the composition in an amount of from about 27 to 39% byweight, based on the weight of the composition.
 14. The composition ofclaim 11 wherein (b) is present in the composition in an amount of fromabout 1 to 4% by weight, based on the weight
 15. The composition ofclaim 11 wherein the composition is free of fatty alcohol ethoxylates.16. The composition of claim 11 wherein the sum of (b)+(c)+(d) is lessthan about 25% by weight, based on the weight of the composition. 17.The composition of claim 11 wherein the sum of (b)+(c)+(d) is from about10 to 18% by weight, based on the weight of the composition.
 18. Thecomposition of claim 11 wherein (c) is present in the composition in anamount of from about 2 to 5% by weight, based on the weight of thecomposition.
 19. The composition of claim 11 wherein (a) is present inan amount of from about 27 to 39% by weight, (b) is present in an amountof from about 1 to 4% by weight, (c) is present in an amount of fromabout 2 to 5% by weight, and (d) is a betaine present in an amount offrom about 3 to 8% by weight, all weights being based on the weight ofthe composition.
 20. A process for imparting pearlescence to a productcomprising adding to the product a pearlescent composition containing:(a) from about 20 to 45% by weight of a pearlizing wax; (b) from about0.1 to 6% by weight of an anionic surfactant; (c) from about 0.1 to 8%by weight of a polyol ester; (d) optionally, a surfactant selected fromthe group consisting of a zwitterionic surfactant, an amphotericsurfactant, and mixtures thereof; and (e) water, all weights being basedon the weight of the composition, and wherein (a) and (c) are present inthe composition in a ratio by weight of from about 12:1 to 7:1, andwherein (c) and (b) are present in the composition in a ratio by weightof from about 2:1 to 0.8:1.
 21. The process of claim 20 wherein (b) isan alkyl ether sulfate.
 22. The process of claim 20 wherein (a) ispresent in the composition in an amount of from about 27 to 39% byweight, based on the weight of the composition.
 23. The process of claim20 wherein (b) is present in the composition in an amount of from about1 to 4% by weight, based on the weight of the composition.
 24. Theprocess of claim 20 wherein the composition is free of fatty alcoholethoxylates.
 25. The process of claim 20 wherein the sum of (b)+(c)+(d)is less than about 25% by weight, based on the weight of thecomposition.
 26. The process of claim 20 wherein the sum of (b)+(c)+(d)is from about 10 to 18% by weight, based on the weight of thecomposition.
 27. The process of claim 20 wherein (c) is present in thecomposition in an amount of from about 2 to 5% by weight, based on theweight of the composition.
 28. The process of claim 20 wherein thecomposition contains (a) in an amount of from about 27 to 39% by weight,(b) in an amount of from about 1 to 4% by weight, (c) in an amount offrom about 2 to 5% by weight, and (d) a betaine in an amount of fromabout 3 to 8% by weight, all weights being based on the weight of thecomposition.